Whatever, the news casts a pall over the beginning of the day. The weather is strange too. A plume of warm air has been sucked up from the continent, and outside the car it's sticky and humid under cloudy skies and a strong breeze. Tomorrow the wind will die, and we shall have rain all day, probably starting at five this afternoon, so there's an incentive to throw off the media-induced glooms and get walking.
On a cheerier note - unless you suffer from coulruphobia - the circus has arrived on the Higham Ferrers rec. I search out the path which takes me over the A6 by-pass to the east of town, and though my direction finding is out of sorts today, I eventually find the track which climbs gently beside the rapeseed fields to the Water Lane end of Chelveston. Over the fields the farmer has suspended a couple of animal/crow scarers which resemble Red Kites (the ornithological sort!) bouncing airily on the end of pieces of wire. High overhead a real buzzard is hoping they're fooling no one. There's no water in the ford at Water Lane: although it's rained a little over the last five days, the Daily Express, ever the voice of meteorological doom, has been trumpeting the likelihood of impending drought, and there've been the first suggestions from water companies (all hoping that Mr. Corbyn doesn't win the election and nationalise them) that we should be careful with our hosepipes unless we want them banned.
Either Chelveston originally came in two parts or St. John the Baptist church is hedging its bets. Actually its assignation is to 'Chelveston cum Caldecott' so maybe the latter. A few posts ago I remarked on the number of Hardwicks there are. If anything there are more Caldecotts: Smith to Hardwick's Jones. No surprise: there's a plethora of cold places in Britain to fit the name. But then, the caldarium in Roman baths was the place for a hot plunge so there's a mild lexicographical puzzle here. I think the link from 'Cald' to 'Cold' is the more probable. People like a good moan.
The church is down a leafy path backing onto fields and on it there's a memorial to the American airmen who were based at the local RAF station during the last war. They undertook some of the riskiest bombing missions in WW2 but their success exacted a terrible price in casualties. There's another memorial right in the centre of Chelveston too, by the Star and Garter pub where I have an early lunchtime drink, hanging outside the door waiting for it to open, the image my dad hoped never to see cultivated in his son. If I'd walked in the opposite direction today, clockwise rather than the other thing, I might have arrived at St. John's in time for Tuesday afternoon tea and cake. Bad planning.
The airfield came back to life with a vengeance in the fifties when the Americans constructed an 11,000 foot runway to take their B-47 Stratojets, part of the bomber-led nuclear deterrence fleet. But when De Gaulle founded France's independent 'Force de Frappe', he ordered the American parent airfields off French soil, and with the coming of ICBMs, the politics and strategy changed, so there's now little to betray the existence of such a large facility. Back then, was the Star and Garter full of Carolinian and Californian voices, and the yard stuffed up with Chevys and Pontiacs to pull the local girls? I guess so.
Out of the village I walk through fields to Stanwick (don't pronounce the 'w' unless you want to be immediately identified as an incomer). I obviously look like I'm a local, because just inside the village a woman winds down the passenger window of a grey Golf.
Her: (peremptorily): Where's the High Street?
Me: (amiably, as I think...) I haven't a clue...
Her: Well, that's not very helpful.
Me: Sorry, I'm a walker (stating the bleedin' obvious - I'm wearing shorts, have a rucksack, a stick and am carrying a map. My hat is 80's vintage cricketing fashion.) I'm a foreigner. But let's look at the map. The church is...back there...so if you hang a right at the corner, it should take you round in a circle...
Her: (huffy, now) Don't bother. I expect we'll find it.
Me: ...and back to the middle of the village. High Streets are usually next to the church, aren't they...
But by now they've already moved off without a thank you or goodbye. 'How do I find...?' dialogues are a staple of English Language Teaching materials for children. I must have recorded at least fifty tokens of the type, and they generally don't run like the above. Is there money in 'How to speak rude: a new approach to learning English'? Later on, having walked up the churchyard on Stanwick's little hill, I see Mr and Mrs Golf trying to find their way into the village bistro (Stanwick has a bistro?) They're dressed as one might for a nice lunch if one were seventy-five, so probably they're late and had a row about it, you know, she spent a crucial five minutes too long on her face, and he insisted they went the country route. But honestly, I ask you! Along the way I meet all sorts, and most of them, like the cheery lady with her dogs near Chelveston, are lovely so the clever/dumb balance has to be maintained. 'Whatsoever things are...' Forget it, Vince, it doesn't matter. Move on.
St. Laurence Stanwick, and St. Peter's Raunds are part of the '4 Spires Benefice' which since last February is in an interregnum (i.e. they're between vicars). This group of churches is aptly named: the spires of both are awesomely high and beautiful, both benefiting (I'd have made a good estate agent) from their situation, raised above the communities they serve. Both prove to be shut, though as so often, if I'd had the gumption to plan ahead, or had wanted to spend the time now, I could have tracked down a key from one of the holders. But I just read a psalm, say a prayer, and think about the places, trying to be aware of my prejudices and presuppositions. Most of life seems to be about clearing up misunderstandings, usually one's own, sometimes other people's. Mrs Golf thought I was the one being rude, didn't she?
It's a short stroll up the road past Stanwick's Pocket Park and Raunds' rather bleak playing field into Raunds itself. The skyline behind the playing field is dominated by the Warth Park warehouse development. Well, that's what Northamptonshire does for the UK economy. Because of our centrality I suppose, it's convenient for all kinds of large-scale producers and logistics companies to have their own vast shop floors here. But in terms of the space they occupy compared to the number of people they employ, what's the net long term benefit?
'Er, Claire, does that include Tudor motets and Schubert lieder?'
There's something about Raunds. In the olden days i.e. the nineteen seventies, this was one of the pretty ways to Cambridge, as opposed to the more mundane route through Bedford. It's still a useful back double if there are problems on the A14. Then it always seemed to be tumbleweed o'clock in the middle of town with groups of young people standing on the corners jostling and prodding each other, and deciding who was going to go out with whom next week, if only to the chippie. There wasn't much else to do after the shoes went, but still the place has an air about it, a style that hints at the North Country. By the gate to the little park in the centre is a plaque commemorating the 1905 march to London protesting the low wages of shoe workers. They walked there, and some of them walked back too, and they won a concession from the government of the day.
I'm hoping 'Library Plus' will sell me a book on the history of Raunds but the nice, helpful woman in charge has nothing to offer, except a rather particular imprint about one of the excavations undertaken at the time the warehouse developments began. There's a lot of Saxon stuff under the ground here and on one occasion it drew in Tony Robinson's Time Team for a hectic weekend poke around. I follow the old Meadow Lane down towards the river and the site of the medieval village of Mallows Cotton (sounds like something from Midsummer Murders!). For company I have an unusually large number of dog walkers, and in a little while I see the logic. An upside of the warehouses is a trade-off in nicely manicured paths angling back towards the town centre. I plunge on, trusting the map that I can get under or over the A45 to join the Nene Way on the far side of the river and the wetlands. However what looks feasible on the OS turns out not to be so in practice. Maybe I've missed something. My next intended port of call should be Irthlingborough, but pitching up at the roundabout where the road from Stanwick meets the dual carriageway, I think I've been thwarted. Then I see a brown tourist sign on the other side of the road, and follow its pointing finger into 'Stanwick Lakes', which I suppose I always had down as a fishing facility, but which I now find is a large outdoor pursuitsy expanse under the care of the Rockingham Forest Trust with a Visitor Centre, and cycling, and walking, and rock climbing (walls presumably) and an adventure playground. I don't fork out for the lottery, but the money of those who do is going to some good places.
The weather's looking less promising so I deny myself a cup of coffee, and guess at a direction through the park. Eventually I find the path which brings me up over the weir and on into Irthlingborough past the remnants of the sadly deceased Rushden and Diamonds Football Club. Even the little that remained to them in the history books has this very week been taken away. Forest Green Rovers have been promoted to the Football League Two. Previously Rushden and Irthlingborough (the Diamonds bit!) were the smallest community to host a club in the main Football League but the mantle has passed on.
People who live in Irthlingborough. 1. Big Jim Griffiths. For many years in the eighties he was a stalwart of Northamptonshire County Cricket Club. Allegedly a quick bowler, he was loyal, willing and tall, with a windmill action and a pronounced pause in his action at the bowling crease. He was one of the worst batsmen ever to play first class cricket, christened a 'wally with the willow', but every dog has his day. Look up the story. 2. Chris Storr. Nice man and excellent trumpet player for Jools Holland's band amongst many. He always came happily to play sessions for us when we could afford to make it almost worth his while. As did Trevor Barry, inhabitant of Rushden and ace of bass. If you watch Strictly he's the one with the hat sitting somewhere near Dave Arch. A lovely player, and amusing, genial company.
St. Peter's Irthlingborough has a lantern tower which was built to guide former generations over the marshy drifts alongside the river. The church looks intriguing, there are lights on, and stuff is happening beyond a door at the side. I want to go in, but if I'm to avoid getting wet I have to press on. Like Raunds and Rushden, Irthlingborough is an untidy place, although the size of the church and some of the surrounding buildings shout 'high status'. Again, its history is about ironstone. There's a tunnel between here and Finedon, now safely shut up, but who doesn't love a closed tunnel? I blame Enid Blyton's Famous Five.
And here I get briefly annoyed, as my personal radar goes awry again, and the signage to the Nene Way abandons me in favour of the 'Greenway' which runs across the new nature reserve/SSSI below the town but which turns out to be the Nene Way in disguise. I have a spat with an unfeasibly large man, his grinning wife and his husky dog which is not on a lead despite the proximity of sheep, and on which he seems to think I should lavish praise as it invades my personal space to importune whatever it is that huskies think they fancy. I do the barking, and tell the owner that I don't appreciate the attention, and then reflect as I burn leather into the distance just how big the bloke was, and whether it was altogether wise to antagonise this particular One Man and his Dog. Whatsoever things are lovely...
And finally, Esther...
22.5 km. 6 hrs. 20 degC. Five stiles. Seven gates. Five bridges. One heron interrupted from his daily work by my incautious approach. One bunny: deaf apparently, judging by his reluctance to take flight.
Last week I mentioned Chester Farm, and the work going on there, which prevented me easily accessing the Nene Way from Irchester. Well, Sue and I went back to have a look later in the week. By 2018 there's going to be a Visitor Centre there too, so right along the valley there'll be a chain of interesting places to visit covering nature, archaeology/history and outdoors stuff. This is very good news from the point of view of education and healthy entertainment. It will be a challenge to maintain it all to the high standards that will be initially set, but could we perhaps see a developing movement equivalent to the great era of park construction undertaken by the Victorians? I'd love to think so.
Lord
We blunder around
Stumbling over the furniture
Falling down stairs
Kicking the cat.
Shine your light upon us
So that we may see well enough
To deal graciously with those we love
And those we don't.
Amen
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